I bought my 64 Sting Ray Coupe in 1996 and spent several years going through it, keeping it as original looking as possible, but added a few things like side pipes and Red Lines.  When this car came out I was in the tenth grade and rode in one a friend of mine owned.  I sat in the back cove and couldnt get my head off of the rear window as he banged through the gears!  Later, I bought this one and although I had waited for one all those years, I restored and only drove it on occasion.  Now my passion for rallying and racing has resurfaced and I have started driving it again.  A few Sundays ago, I decided to take it out.  I backed out of the garage and put it in first.  I could feel strain in moving forward.  I got out, jacked up the car in the front and found the right front wheel was locked up.  I turned the wheel and it would turn freely rotating backward, but would become hard to turn going forward.  I put it back in the garage.  The jacking points on these cars are from the side, and I have side pipes, so I decided to jack it up in front.  I jacked it in the center of the crossover, put a jack stand under each front spring, leaving the jack under the center for added security. I then carefully removed the factory hubcaps (they are very hard to replace).  I pulled the wheels and brake drums.  They came off easily and the left front brake assembly looked fine.  So I put it back together.  The right one, however, showed rust and brake fluid when I looked under the rubber wheel cylinder cap and there was some brake fluid seeping out and the left piston was stuck.  The wheel cylinder would have to be replaced.  I checked the brake hose and although the outer rubber looked good, I have had them to look good and collapse inside.  When this happens, it traps the fluid in the brake onposition and doesnt return, thus locking up the brakes.  All this was enough to cause my problem, but when I checked the drum, I could see where the drum had been turned at least twice, and they had turned it the width of the linings only instead of turning all the way to the bolt plate.  This left a ridge about 3/8higher than the brake lining surface.  This lip causes the brake to grab when applied.  So I began to remove parts, getting pictures of everything, of course.  Using brake pliers, I removed the top springs.  You cant mess these up.  They are very different from each other.  The secondary looked like it had been white and the primary gray.  This is typical.  The secondary is stronger and is usually painted white or yellow.  Modern springs are usually the same color and have the same number of turns.   My OEM secondary had 19 turns; the primary had 18.  The wheel cylinder attaches with one bolt.  This bolt is also the anchor pin.  The anchor pin has a round flat washer that acts as a lock washer by tapping up two sides of it onto the flats of the anchor pin nut.  To remove this, you take a chisel and small hammer and tap down the folded sides of the washer and unscrew the bolt.  Mine had been over-tightened and I had to use an impact wrench and impact socket to remove it.  The torque should be about 65 ft/lbs.  I left the shoes attached at the bottom, but greased and worked the adjuster so that the brakes would be easy to adjust later on.  Parts were bought and the brake drum turned, and now it was time to go back together.  I always compare the old to new parts (never turn a core in until the job is done), and I noticed a difference in the brake hose at the top where it screws onto the cars steel line.  The old one was round to let it slide up through the cars brake hose bracket hole.  Then the U-fastener slides into the hoses groove, locking the hose in place.  My new hose had a square nut and was not round.  Checking other hose manufacturers, they all had nuts.  Looking at the manual, a 12 point hole is shown in the bracket, to receive the nut/hose.  For some reason, my bracket has a round hole.  The old hose was round.  I decided the best fix was to use a Dremel and round the point off on the new hose nut.  Now it pushed in the bracket and all was well.  The other end of the brake hose was long enough to stick through the opening where the wheel cylinder would go.  This allowed me to put the copper washer on the hose, spin the wheel cylinder around before tightening it down.  With the cylinder in place, I put in the anchor bolt with its lock washer and tightened it down.  Then put on the anchor bolt spring washer and then put on the springs.  This is done with goggles on and a brake tool that fits your application.  I used brake pliers and snapped each of the two springs over the anchor pin, then closed the end of the springs to help prevent them from coming off.  I also used Hi-Temp red grease on the brakes grease points, adjuster wheel, backing plate contact faces, and pivots.  Everything looked good, so I slid on the brake drum, aligning it so the adjuster hole was at the bottom.  The drum now spun easily in either direction.  Using my brake spoon, I adjusted the brake until the drum would only spin a couple of times around, then I backed off the adjuster a couple of clicks, leaving the final shoe adjustment to be done when I backed the car, applying the brakes, as the manual suggests.   Finally, I bled the brakes.  I bled the front wheel I was working on first.  A lot of air bubbles came out.  Then I bled all the wheels in the conventional way.  My master cylinder is mounted  on the fire wall on the left side of the car, so you go furthest to closest:  right rear, left rear, right front, left front.  I did this twice.  No bubbles!  I used a long 3/8" brake bleeding wrench.  The new wheel cylinder may have a 10 mm bleeder, but the 3/8" works just fine.  This allows me to use the same bleeder wrench on all wheel cylinders.  I used the OEM standard DOT 3 fluid.  On the final brake adjustment, I just pulled forward in the car, then backed up with my foot on the brake pedal, until the pedal came up to a right height.  Took a couple of times.  Self-adjusters have a safety feature so you can't over-adjust them.  Now all I need is a little Spring weather, so I can drive my car.  Stay safe.  Spring is getting close.  Keep 'em driving!